Wittenbergs

Wittenbergs
Showing posts with label Ruby Valley. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ruby Valley. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 22, 2014

What I will/won’t miss about Ruby Valley


On the morning of December 19, with a heavy heart, I drove north out of Ruby Valley, pulling away from Ruby Lake National Wildlife Refuge – our home of the past four years.  It was a fitting exit – snow had fallen during the night, blanketing the marsh and sagebrush, and the air was crisp and biting.  This was just how the valley was the day we drove to our new home, sight unseen, four years earlier.  And as we pulled out of our driveway, a Golden Eagle flew up to perch on the telephone pole beside our house, as though saying goodbye. 

It was hard to say goodbye…

Our first night in our new house, before our ABF truck arrived with our belongings, we slept on the floor of our new bedroom in sleeping bags, Rod and I.  Our last night in our house, the moving truck having pulled away with all of our things, we slept in sleeping bags on the floor of our bedroom, Rod, Charley, Reed and I (well, Reed in his cradle…).  I sat on the floor of Charley’s empty room, nursing Reed, and felt a sudden wash of unanticipated intense sadness.  This is the house to which we brought home our brand new baby girl.  This was the only home she’d ever known, where we’d raised her to age three.  This had been her bedroom, that I lovingly and carefully decorated and filled.  Sigh – all the memories.  I knew we’d make new memories in our new home, but it was still so very bittersweet.

Our friend and neighbor Trish Freeman planned a holiday/going away party, and invited all of our friends from the valley.  The turnout was amazing.  So many came to celebrate Christmas and tell us goodbye.  It was humbling.  And they gifted us with a beautiful framed piece of art with photos of the refuge.  The night before we pulled out, Charley, Reed and I retreated to the bunkhouse, since our house was completely empty.  And several of our neighbors came to keep us company.  Sarah Morris, Wendy Malone…  all of these people will be greatly missed.  And Charley will be so sad to no longer have the Morrises to play with…  or Paula.  How we will miss Paula.  And the daily visits from Trish (often twice daily sometimes three!) – they kept me from being lonely.  And kept the dogs sane.

There is so much to miss, already, about Ruby Valley. 

The beauty, the grandeur…  we’ll never live anywhere as majestic. 

The water – straight from Cave Creek, a mountain-fed stream.  We’ll never have water so pure and clean.

The isolation.  I learned, a LOT, about myself in the last 4 years.  This is the one thing I feared most about moving from our college town of Fayetteville to Ruby Valley.  I was so anxious about being so isolated, and how I would handle it.  Oddly enough, I ended up loving it – something I never imagined.  It is so peaceful, so relaxing.  It is actually so much harder for me to return to civilization now – the crazy business of it all – than to live in isolation.  Who would have thought?

The mail service – we’ll never again be able to put a package and a note in the mailbox to Don the mailman, saying “Let me know what I owe you”, and have the mailman pay to deliver your package with a simple “I owe you”.

Susie and the bus.  Where else can you have your own area delivery system via the schoolbus?  Need to get something to your neighbor 45 minutes up the road?  Send it on the bus with Susie!  Need to distribute information about a holiday party?  Send fliers to everyone with Susie!  And another perk?  Charley got to ride the school bus like a big girl, thanks to dear Susie.

Our neighbors.  When you live 2 hours (in winter) from a gallon of milk, and civilization, you feel very lucky to have others to talk to.  Trish, Paula, the Morrises, Wendy…  we all relied on each other for sanity!  We started Ladies’ Night every other Tuesday, which we all looked forward to.  Charley greatly looked forward to her playdates with Henry and Evie, and her outside time with all 4 (and now 5!) Morris kids.  What would we have done without these people to get us through?

The neighbors and coworkers – as in – “It takes a village to raise a child.”  Charley is all the better for all the people who contributed to her growth and development through the first 3 years of her life.  I look back fondly upon these people.  The obvious people I’ve already mentioned – the countless hours spent sledding, playing on the swingset, splashing in the pool, etc. etc. with the Morrises, having a “Ladies’ Night” (just Charley and Wendy) to make pottery and play games, making Valentines with and a Halloween surprise from Trish, coffee dates and potty prizes from Paula.  Then there was the attention she received from our summer volunteers – Jackie, Pat and Klaus.  And of course Susie…  Susie always had a soft spot for Charley and Charley loved her.

The community.  The people of Ruby Valley were welcoming to us from the start.  Inviting us to play basketball, participate in book club, to attend craft days and baking demos and various events, to be part of Ladies’ Club – playing bunko and other games, inviting us to play soccer, etc.  They always made us feel welcome and included, and everyone was super friendly.  The Dahls, Livingstones, Larsons, Sampsons, Neffs – they were all great.  It was a great close-knit community that you rarely find in America anymore.  With a one room school house for all the kids in the valley and a community hall to foster fellowship, it was a great place to be a part of.  Annual Trunk or Treat, Santa at the hall, egg hunts at the school – we’ll miss it all.

My mom’s group.  Not really Ruby Valley – Elko – but as much a part of my experience living there as anything.  I found the group by inquiring about birthing classes while pregnant with Charley.  Although there were none available, I was directed to the Family Resource Center, and in turn learned about the Family to Family classes offered there.  As luck would have it, once Charley was born and spring finally arrived and I was ready to start traveling to town for “fun” (rather than long grueling days of errands), they condemned the building the classes were held in.  Luckily, the 0-1 year old group started a FB page in order to keep meeting on their own, and I was linked up to them.  That summer, I met up with this great group of moms in the park a couple of times, and soon found a great group of women that over the next 3 years became a super support group for me.  Once the FRC reopened in a new location, we’d become a close group, attending holiday and birthday parties throughout the year.  Charley’s and my lives were so much enriched because of this group, and especially Monica – my dear friend Monica, Charley’s best friend Layla, and Reed’s almost best friend Owen.  ;)  Thanks to Monica, every single time I went to town I had a lunch date, a playgroup companion, someone to meet up at the park with, and often someone to spend the night with so Charley and I could fit in both playgroup and storytime, a couple of lunches and some fun play time with our friends.

What I won’t miss about Ruby Valley:

The winters.  The wind.  The weather being bad for 8 months out of the year.  That’s it.

Well, okay – that and the kill everything mentality.  Wildlife is generally hated in the west.  Coyotes, badgers, ground squirrels, porcupines, mountain lions…  you name it.  Most people see no good in them and make it their mission to kill them – all of them.  I really hate this.  I’ve never lived anywhere where this mentality is so prevalent, so domineering, so – terrible.

The isolation.  J  Yes, I loved it…  but I will admit, I was often jealous of my friends in town.  Playgroups, park dates, storytimes at the library, ice cream meet ups – all in the course of a week.  Sigh.  Oh well – I might as well focus on the “like” part of it, because where we’re going is just as remote!

Living at the place you work, you can never get away from the job.  Ever.  Of course, this won’t change at the new refuge.  L

WE WILL MISS YOU RUBY VALLEY AND FRIENDS!

Friday, August 13, 2010

Field Ecology of the Great Basin Desert

I was fortunate enough to be the science teacher at Haas Hall Academy for 3.5 years, from 2006-2009. It was a GREAT experience, I LOVED my job, LOVED my school, LOVED my faculty, and LOVED my students. Rod even had the opportunity to coach PE there for 1 semester, after he graduated and before he got his new job, and was pretty fond of the place too. It will always hold a spot in our hearts! So, when we learned we were moving to Nevada, we started thinking of ways to maintain a relationship with HHA. We decided to offer a summer class titled Field Ecology of the Great Basin Desert. We just hosted the first one, from July 28 - August 4, and it went off wonderfully!

I drove to Salt Lake City on the 28 to pick the five participating students up from the airport: Zoe and Eli Barton, Cayenne Buell, David Halperin and Katherine Magoulick. They all seemed excited and in good spirits. We stopped on the way back to Ruby Valley for a Burger King lunch and to buy a week's worth of groceries. We also stopped to take photos of a dead porcupine on the road - they were excited about everything, and it was contagious!

The first morning they participated in a Leopard Frog survey - we found five. They are considering listing it under the ESA.


That afternoon they got started on their individual research projects. Eli and David were going to examine mosquito larvae densities, but after not being able to locate any, instead, compared species diversity between habitat types for aquatic invertebrates.



Katherine looked at how soil crust varied as you moved linearly away from roadways.




Cayenne and Zoe looked at whether people attempted to avoid or hit a snake in the road, using fake snakes for models.



They had some interesting results, including this man who got out, retrieved a fishing pole and approached the snake with it, before realizing it was fake!



Their fake rattlesnake








It wasn't all work and no play. They went fishing one afternoon, got a refuge tour, toured the fish hatchery, visited Fort Ruby...



...went wildlife watching, and road cruising at night looking for snakes. Zoe, our budding herpetologist, couldn't get enough of that! Rod let them watch him process a rattlesnake one night too.




And finally, they were able to go on a 2 day field trip with the YCC crew to Great Basin National Park. We had a really great time! We hiked to an ancient Bristlecone Pine grove, the oldest organisms on earth, and a glacier below Wheeler Peak, the second highest point in the state.








I felt really pregnant for the first time! That hike was pretty tough!

We also were fortunate enough to have Bryan Hamilton, the park biologist, come talk to us and even take us tracking two of his transmittered snakes! Very cool.




We (Rod, the 5 HHA students and I) headed out at 5:30 am from the park to get them back to the airport. All -in-all, I think it was a great time! Maybe they'll drum up interest from their friends and we can do another next year!
On the way back to Ruby Valley, Rod and I stopped on the Bonneville Salt Flats to get a closer look.



Thursday, August 12, 2010

California Baby!

When I was in high school, we had an exchange student from Norway, Astrid, live with us for part of a year. Her husband Knut, daughter Madeleine, and she came to the states for the second time for a visit, and this time they spent part of their time in California. As that was closer for me to travel to than going back to Alabama (where they spent the second part of their visit), I decided to head to Cali to hang out with them.



I headed out of Ruby Valley, and right into the middle of a cattle drive - something definitely different about living out west!








On the stretch between Ruby Valley and Elko, I saw a live badger (my third, but first in broad daylight!) and a dead one. That brings my total to 5 live and 3 dead - pretty sad that I've seen more dead than alive. People here do NOT yield to wildlife, and it's a real shame. The only saving grace is the low population out here... if there were as many people in the wide open west as back home, the animals would be doomed!
The first night I drove to Sacramento and stayed with my cousin Maria - actually, she's my cousin Jasin's wife, but he was out of town, so we just had a girly evening. We went to a great Mexican restaurant and spent the evening playing with her cats and watching HGTV. It was nice to see her home and spend some time with her!



The drive west was beautiful - there was a stark contrast in scenery between all of Nevada east of Reno, and Reno and the Truckee River west into California. I climbed up and over the Sierra Nevadas, saw a turnoff for the Pacific Crest Trail and the Donner Pass.
The next day I drove on to San Francisco. I was ASTOUNDED at the pollution - the sky was PINK and HAZY with SMOG - it was disgusting. The air seeping into the car smelled of chemical stench. It was pretty unbelievable. How did we allow this to happen? The traffic was unbelievable. Everywhere. I was never in California, ever, that I wasn't in heavy traffic. What a shame. Made me long for that clean Nevada air!
As I was approaching San Francisco, I nearly had a heart attack... the realization hit me that I was driving a standard transmission, and about to visit the hilliest city in the US! Oh my gosh... I mean, I can drive a stick really well, I think, but in San Francisco? THAT'S another story! I started sweating it. Thankfully, they'd chosen a hotel right on the coast so I avoided any severe hills.

It was nice to see them - we did some classic San Fran touristy things: walked on the Golden Gate Bridge, rode a double-decker bus on a tour around the city, saw Lombard street...






IT. WAS. FREEZING. None of us had packed appropriately. Knut and I both bought a fleece jacket from street vendors. Our hotel even had fires going outside!


As I left, it took me over an hour to get from the parking lot to the interstate, which was maybe then blocks away. Ridiculous. Traffic. Ugh.







I stopped back by Sacramento for a night, and spent it with my other cousin, Marjo Muir. I spent the evening catching up with her in her new apartment, and got to meet her boyfriend Tony. The next morning we had breakfast before I hit the road.



After a long drive home, and stopping in Elko to get an oil change (hey, when town's a 3 hour drive round-trip, you do things when you have the opportunity!), this was the beautiful scene that greeted me once I arrived back home in Ruby Valley.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Good Friends and Good Times

Our good friends Ambre and Brad Brewster, and their kiddos Owen and Addyson, came to visit us for 9 days! It was so nice to spend time with them - too bad the times are so few and far between these days. They flew into Salt Lake City on July 3, and we drove over and joined them that evening. We took advantage of the hotel's happy hour, then retired to the room and ordered pizza in for supper.

The next day we spent at the Hogle Zoo, which we were all impressed with. The habitats were ideal, the animals all seemed content, and best of all the zoo did a great job with conveying conservation messages - what I think should be the point of a zoo. The visitors were amazingly respectful - unbelievable, I didn't see ONE PERSON banging on the glass or saying something negative about the animals, which was a first for me!







After we left the zoo, we went to The Mayan for supper - they actually have cliff divers for entertainment while you eat! Even though it was a day early, we "celebrated" Rod and Brad's birthday (they share their day!) by eating a chocolate cake with a sprinkler in it.






Later that evening, Rod and I celebrated the 4th of July by watching a fireworks show from the top deck of our hotel.

The rest of the week was just really relaxing and especially enjoyable for me, having good friends around to talk with! We caught up on lots and had some good quality time - how I miss that! We went hiking, the boys went fishing, we toured the fish hatchery and Owen and Addyson got to feed the fish, Ambre and I went mammal-hunting on the roads at night, we watched a movie while the kids (and Brad!) were napping, we took the dogs for LOTS of walks (which both the dogs AND the kids, who got to walk them, really liked) - it was really, really nice.
Their final weekend here, we took them to Lamoille Canyon - we'd loved it when we visited with Mom and Dad and thought they would love it too. We had lunch first at a little tavern with a great front porch, and the weather was perfect.




We were hoping to find more mountain goats, or even better bighorn sheep, but no luck this time. However, the avalanche blocking the road was all cleared up, and we were able to drive to the top of the canyon and hike 2 miles to Lamoille Lake, a beautiful pristine alpine lake. Finally, Rod and I found our Clark's Nutcrackers - and there was a grove FULL of them!





Since we're about to be parents ourselves, it was particularly cute for me to watch Rod interact with the kiddos - he's gonna be a great dad!









Thanks again, Ambre, Brad, Owen and Addyson, for making the trip to come and visit us - it meant the world! Come anytime!

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Our First Visitors to Ruby Lake

Mom and Dad flew out to visit us in late May/early June, and we were so excited to play hosts! They flew into Salt Lake City, the nearest airport to us (4-4.5 hours away), rented a car and drove out to Ruby Valley. They arrived on Friday May 28 in early evening. We had a busy time planned for them - just how we like it!


Mom had packed an entire carry-on suitcase full of plants, and I was fortunate to have their help in some of our yard beautification projects! They don't let grass grow under their feet - Mom and I got to work right away planting flowers out front! And even though it was almost June, it was COLD!




Here is the water feature I'd already installed in the flower bed, we just planted around it! I've had birds drinking and bathing from it, including a Lewis' Woodpecker, Yellow-headed Blackbirds, Brewer's Blackbirds, and Lazuli Buntings.



Rod had to contribute to the flower bed too with his own personal touch!



Dad, aka "Durvish Dad", helped around the house too, from washing cars to planting vegetables in the garden to hanging birdfeeders.


Saturday, their first full day, we headed to Lamoille Canyon, also in the Ruby Mountains but about 1.5 hours away. It was absolutely beautiful. We couldn't get that high up into the canyon, however, due to heavy snow pack covering the road.






We did get really close to a porcupine, who seemed completely unconcered with our presence...



... and we saw a whole herd of mountain goats!








Sunday we got up and headed towards the Utah border to Great Basin National Park, a little over 3 hours away. To do this, we headed south to Ely and traveled on Highway 50, the "Loneliest Highway in America".



However, we all agreed that the road taking us south out of Ruby Valley and through Long Valley was MUCH lonelier!




We did pass a small group of "wild horses" on the way.



These are very controversial out here. The BLM and the Humane Society of the United States are always fighting about these horses. They are truly feral horses, that have been living free on the open range for decades. There are many facets to the issue - from them not having adequate water or food on the open range and thus starving, to the case that they are destroying habitat, to the possibility that they are competing with native wildlife as well as cattle. As an ecologist, I totally see a case for the fact that these are non-native introduced species that shouldn't be here as they unnaturally alter the ecosystem and affect the wildlife living in it. However, for every feral horse out there there must be HUNDREDS of cows, so it seems ridiculous to me to take on the issue of eliminating horses for the minimal damage they may be causing, when the effect on the environment from cattle is astronomical. Until grazing is addressed, talking about the horses seems absurd.

Here we are, at GBNP!



We drove up Wheeler Peak scenic drive (at over 13,000 feet, it is the second tallest peak in Nevada) and debated hiking to the top, but here's what we encountered:



Hmmm... maybe we'd better not. Instead we found a lower elevation trail - Pole Canyon:



We stayed at the Silver Jack Inn, which was really a trailer converted into very simple rooms.




And we ate at the Lectrolux Cafe - an eclectic little restaurant/bakery/gifty shop that I loved!



Here, we celebrated Mom's birthday!



Monday we headed back to Ruby Valley, and Tuesday I had an OB appointment in Elko. While there, we visited the Northeast Nevada Museum and saw the original Pony Express cabin, which used to sit on the south end of the refuge.



We also ate at The Star - a Basque restaurant/hotel started one hundred years ago as a safe haven and socializing spot for Basque sheepherders who had settled the area. The food is served family style - cabbage soup, salad with a creamy garlic dressing, bread and butter, and french fries for all - plus whatever main course (usually a garlic-laden meat such as steak or lamb) you order. (Except for me - I just do the sides!)



We spent Wednesday - Friday bumming around the refuge. We got a tour of the Gallagher State Fish Hatchery, where I spotted a bird never before seen in Nevada (see following post). We planted my vegetable garden. We drove the refuge auto loop (more than once). We hiked Cave Creek trail, and walked the dogs around the refuge roads.



Dad hiked up to the top of the mountain behind our house. Mom helped me do some baby preparation. It was nice to just spend time together.

When driving the auto route, this Killdeer frantically hopped up and down, capturing our attention and luring us away from her nest - which we weren't sure about where it was located, but upon further investigation Dad found the four small speckled eggs, right in the middle of the road.




We also got some great looks of a Short-eared Owl!



Saturday, Mom, Dad and I headed to Salt Lake City, leaving Rod behind for a long three weeks by himself. We toured the Mormon/LDS Temple Square area in the middle of SLC. We had two very nice "sisters" who gave us a tour, and learned a lot about the Mormon religion. It was a great week!